Saturday, April 30, 2011

Saturday

A couple of the Alakanuk boys were surprised to see a bear in the cafeteria. It had a bulletproof case, so I doubt it had much of a chance to eat them for lunch.

Yesterday, eight Natural Helpers and I were picked up in a chartered Caravan. We flew to St. Mary's, fueled up, and headed to Russian Mission. From flat tundra to tree-covered hills, our plane bumped along roughly over the Yukon. As our pilot took a few hard turns into "bear country" (they call it that for its abundance of bears, wolves, and moose), I laughed as the boys pretended to slide up against the windows or hang out of their seats. A modified version of the classic roadtrip game, Corners. The pilot pulled one last hard corner right before the runway into Russian Mission and my window was parallel with the brown dirt for quite some time. We arrived in good spirits and got settled into the school.

Our team split up into two rooms-- boys in the library and girls with me in the HeadStart room. The daylight lasts many hours, but the Natural Helpers are awake many more. Some didn't go to bed until 5 a.m. and others (including me) were waking up from showering girls and a crying baby by that time.
It's hard to tell in this picture, but they had about the largest cups I've ever seen... I don't know if I can drink that much.

This day has included breakfast, clean-up, games, basketball tournament, break-out sessions on multiple topics, lunch, a survey, meetings, obstacle course, supper, more basketball games, a prank on the seniors, clean-up, and the list goes on and on. As a sponsor, I wasn't required to participate in much, so the majority of my time has been spent in the office helping making a Prom Queen crown, checking in with the kiddos, walking them to the store, and encouraging them to participate rather than texting. It is amazing how 120 students can be in one place, yet be texting about 600 more people.
This was the first church built by the Russian Missionaries in 1850.

Tonight at the awards ceremony we honored two people from Natural Helpers from Scammon Bay who passed away this year. Their sponsor died giving birth this year. The group seemed to hold it together as they accepted the tribute. However, the next tribute also went to Scammon Bay. They had a young member die because he stepped in front of a bullet to save his mom's life. Many of the students hadn't seen the videos of the last fall retreat, so watching a movie with clips of his charisma and loving personality were extremely hard as that raw emotion rushed back to unhealed hearts.

(It is 4:40 a.m. and students are still running around the school. Music is bumping, the loud beats are vibrating through my body, as the Natural Helpers are either sitting on the bleachers or staying far away from the empty gym dance floor. Although there are many students here, a non-decorated gym and lots of students who weren't able to get formal wear doesn't equal much of a prom. They are occupying the wee hours of the morning to wrestle, listen to music in their rooms, play tag, make new friends, etc. I'm okay with them having this unique opportunity to get to know each other and build connections between villages, so I've been making the most out of it.)

A few of the female sponsors and I decided to make the staff room the "Laugh Room". Some people thought there was laughing gas leaking from the vents in there. Two days in a row people wandered in there to grab some snacks and commented, "We want whatever it is you have!" We watched a video online yesterday about the 5 ways a Native Woman laughs. They had watched it before, but I found out later they were watching me as I laughed. One said, "That's funny. You don't laugh like a kass'aq, you laugh like a native!" I guess I just like to move while I laugh, slapping my knee, leaning, and pointing. (Maybe that is one thing I've picked up without noticing...) My voice is hoarse from having too much fun.

If you do take the time to watch this, I want to note that we've decided there should be more traits. Number 6: The stomp. Number 7: The "wind-down" The more native women in the room while watching it, the better. Good, good times!

Down by the river there is lots of mud and erosion

Earlier today I had a chance to grab my camera and go down through the village to the airport with Russian's Instructional Leader Jason, his son, as well as the district's Directory of Technology and my friend Joshua Jerome. The sun was shining through the clouds, the snow is mostly puddles, and these guys dared to try some steep, icy trails!
The real excitement begins.

I was lucky to be able to go on this quick little excursion away from the school while our male chaperone took a turn of watching the kids during a basketball tournament. And thank you to a pretty generous IL for allowing me to ride a four-wheeler on a nice day outdoors to see some of the beautiful Russian Mission.

4:52AM now and most students are still rampant. My girls are coming in the room now, so I'll pop in the earplugs and hope we can all get a little sleep.

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Natural Helper Spring Retreat in Russian Missian, AK

The Natural Helper Team, I (as the sponsor), and another as the male chaperone will be loading up onto two planes exactly 12 hours from now. The Spring NH Retreat is being held in Russian Mission this weekend starting tomorrow until Sunday. There will be lots of activities, skits, ice-breakers, a basketball tournament, a prom, and more for the students to participate in.
Who needs a suitcase when the good tried-and-true Alaskan tote works just fine. In this particular tote, I was able to fit props for the skit we still need to plan for, snacks, a pillow, shower supplies, and some warmer gear for outdoor activities, and my clothes for the weekend. Now hopefully I can get a little sleep before an entire weekend of giggling girls, boisterous boys, and hectic eclecticism.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Easter Sunday Activities

Since I have only witnessed two Easters with snow involved (I remember a snowball fight at my aunt's in Minot, ND and this year), I decided I should do something special to celebrate.

First off, my family called me on Skype after their Easter dinner. As foam bullets whizzed at my computer screen, my cousins, my brother, my dad, and more kept firing the nerf-guns. It was quite the welcoming heart-warming hello! Since this is a tradition I am usually a part of, it made me feel special that I was still being included in the fun. How many families celebrate with such unique toys? I love them.
Once I said goodbye, I stuffed myself silly on ham and potatoes. Then, I set out to do one more personal goal that I had yet to fulfill in this winter wonderland-- build a snowman. Since the temperature is rising I knew it would be a good chance to play in the snow. However, I didn't want to make any old snowman.... I wanted to make a snow-bunny.

Next to the Yukon, my Easter bunny started to form. The snow was a little older, wetter, and more difficult to deal with that I realized. It was warm enough for the first time this season to not wear Base 3.0 base layers, two layers of face protection, and my windproof jacket liner. Good thing I "underdressed" because I struggled and sweated to roll any snowball close to the shape of a sphere. However, he finally came to life.



I was shocked when he hopped on my machine and tried to take it for a ride. He must have been the one who 15 minutes later got it stuck in the sloppy dense snow... ;) I had to call for Josh's guns to get me out because after soaking my clothes and accidentally packing the snow more with my hands I couldn't get that thing to budge!





Sunday, April 24, 2011

Happy Easter!


In response to my writing prompt about Easter traditions, many of my students wrote about coloring and finding Easter eggs and about even getting presents. However, I couldn't help but smile to find out that people also like to go manaqing (ice fishing) or rabbit hunting. Personally I can't laugh at anyone else's Easter traditions when mine have started including Nerf Wars with my cousins. The common thread is that we usually find something that we enjoy to do with the people we love. Today I hope to Skype my family who are all at my aunt Kathryn's house.

At 1, I'll go to the Easter service at the Catholic church and then cook a ham dinner with my roommate. Yesterday, I made my mom's famous crescent rolls as well as a new little trial cinnamon bun (they passed the test because I think I ate three yesterday).

Today I think about the man who named me after his mother- Itegmaralria. He tells the class I am God-given and that there is a reason God sent me here to teach them. Itegmaralria in Yupik means "precious gift from God." I believe after long prayer and with certainty that I was meant to move here and teach. However, the reasoning is unclear as it seems that most times it is difficult to foster respect in the classroom, it is almost impossible to work in unity as a school and staff, and discouraging to find any genuine friendship. I am trusting God chooses where he places my next step and I don't feel it's my place to wonder why. In Hebrew, my name, Jana, means "God is gracious" or "God's gracious gift."

In Swahili, Jana means "Yesterday." I know God has led my yesterdays. I am so thankful that he promises newness of life, love, and laughter because He sent His son to give us the most beautiful love story of all. Because He lives, I can face tomorrow.

Happy Easter to everyone!

Yesterday, my students had fun with Easter supplies sent up from my aunt, Kathryn. She always knows how to celebrate!Students got to decorate foam Easter eggs

Who's going to win? Bunny or Chicky? We voted... I believe bunny won.
We tried a few different styles of Easter eggs

White Crayon and multiple dips

Rubber bands

The fun disposal of our dyes when we were done. The students saw a kindergartner eating some of the colored snow. I wonder how that vinegar snowcone tasted?

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Native Special Olympics


Onlookers cheering, contestants smiling, and people encouraging contestants made this a special event. Special Olympics were held at our site this year during the school day and many classes got to crowd at the rail on the deck as students from special ed classes around the district competed in various snowshoe relays. Below, a student from Alakanuk hustles towards the finish line with a caring hand nearby.

Many people were involved in the event-- students, teachers, Natural Helpers, the people who planned the event, classified staff, etc. My class enjoyed clapping, hollering, and screaming and gave respect to their fellow schoolmates. I hope to see something like this again next year!

Thursday, April 21, 2011

"Manaq"ing (Ice-fishing)

On a chilly Saturday morning as the sun was rising, so did I. I went "manaq"ing with a friend Helen and some of her family. After preparing to be gone all day long and warming up my snowmachine, I waited for her call. Finally she said they were taking off and to meet them by the slough.

So with that, I set out. Twenty seconds later I sit at the slough watching snowmachines going by (all most likely going to the same place, but I was waiting for Helen). A couple snowmachines slow down and I squint to see if they might be Helen and her crew, but I can't tell so I wait. A while later a snowmachine comes back and drives a little closer, stops, then turns around and takes off. I decide to follow it guessing it is Helen.

Five minutes into my journey, I realize that I have no idea who I am really following. Everyone is so bundled up that I start to worry that I made a mistake and they might be wondering, who is this crazy kass'aq following us? My stomach tightens as I think back to my morning encounter.

Maybe I should have waited until Helen drove all the way up to me so I could have said "Waqaa. Good Morning! WHO are you?" That way I could have properly identified this snowmachiner who was driving quite aggressively. I was hoping it wasn't some random guy leading me into the wilderness (I wasn't really that scared, but the thought did cross my mind!). After many miles, the snowmachines slowed down and they uncovered their faces for a smoke break. To my relief, it was Helen's family. I forgot to compliment Helen on her aggressive driving skills.

We traveled through slough after slough and similar looking turns and trees. I was surprised to see so many abandoned fishing camps along the way. Each camp had one small house near the edge of the river. Helen told me later that fishing camps always moved around because the sand bars and land change every few years making fishing conditions constantly change.

Also while we were driving, a couple moose were trying to walk out onto the frozen water but their weight caused them to break through the ice as they did a sad little dance to get back to the embankment. After traveling about 30 miles upriver to a spot called ... (I'm trying to think of the name of their manaqing spot and all that's coming to mind is the Yu'pik word for "pants" which I doubt is it.) (I still need to get that name from someone...)

Instantly the guys got out their large augers, cranked up the engines, started drilling new holes, that I'm quite positive scared all the fish away. However, one guy let me know that in order for the fish to come and since I was a beginner I'd have to give a good luck fish dance. We referred to the Floppy Fish Dance all day long and I never did find the goofiness to actually get down on the ice and try the Floppy Fish Dance. Next time.

While fishing, they use short wooden poles with strings and a hook, drop them into the holes, and flick their wrist every so often. Within about 20 seconds of me parking my snowmachine I was handed a pole. I gave a few side glances to see the other ladies just standing their and jerking their wrist about every 4 seconds so I imitated their movements.

Out of the entire day only two people caught fish called Pike. They were both standing directly behind me (all the holes are only a couple feet apart). Both times, I didn't get to see how they actually went about getting the fish out of the hole because my back was to them. I started to wonder if my backside was beginning to be a good luck charm to anyone standing directly behind me. 

They said that the fishing is usually much better, but I didn't mind because everyone was still having a good time visiting and "hooking."

I decided I had a couple tricks up my sleeve to increase my odds of getting a fish, but the fish didn't seem too entertained.

Two hooks at one time. Double the odds! My hooks never crossed. (Which also convinces me that maybe my holes didn't even reach through the ice and maybe I was really just trying to fish in an oversized test tube of an ice hole!)

My next trick was inspired after our lunch break when I realized that every species on earth loves food. So I decorated my hook with a brightly colored fruitsnack. "Here fishy fishy!"

Nope.

Next, I didn't want to insult the obvious carnivore fish, so I plunked on a nice juicy piece of reindeer sausage.

Still nothing.
Here is a picture of the guys who at one point were shooting at a Lynx. There was also a fox wandering around the area. It is nice to be around such wildlife!
Nora, an elderly woman who I secretly was charmed by. She lives in Emmonak, close to Alakanuk. Throughout the day some people would come and go while they drove from other manaqing spots or villages.

"Manaq"ing was fun and I definitely appreciated the experience!

Last night while I was in the process of posting this blog, I was inspired to start sketching with Charcoal. I tried to focus on charming Nora's face and part of her ruff. I'm not sure if I'll finish it or not, but I loved remembering her quiet sparkle that dances with her content smile.

Kissing the Snow

From gliding across the sunny tundra to overturning my snowmachine and kissing the snow, this movie shows quite a bit of the reason I have enjoyed my winter here. Here is a video I made with clips of snowmachine trips and more from around the village.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

A Visit From my Parents!

A few weeks ago, I had the honor of having my parents come all the way to an isolated village, hardly known for being a tourist attraction! After a few flights, they landed on our gravel airstrip in Alakanuk safe and sound. My mom commented how it felt like North Dakota-- blue skies, sunny, snowy white, low trees, and flat.
My parents and I walked to the Yukon Cafe to enjoy some burgers and onion rings. I used to never crave fried food, but those onion rings I crave!
Dad and I walked next door to Dave's store. The store and restaurant are owned by the same owner. (And his name isn't Dave.)
These are all over the slough and river for fishing. They keep sticks in them to keep a hole there and to help break up the ice when they want to puncture it again.
Plunking at the piano (a very rare commodity to have), which I am privileged to have in my classroom. I wish it was tuned and fixed so I could play it more often without having to grimace or pull keys back up as I play. My dad and I had fun trying to figure out what needed to be fixed.
After we toured my classroom, we went to the community city league games going on in the high school gym. It was only a men's tournament, but usually I like to join.

Since we came in the back door, mom was surprised to see the Alakanuk-style parking lot in front of the school. Snowmachines are the main mode of transportation here. There are also four-wheelers and a few vehicles.

Mom may have been impressed at the number of snowmachines, but I was more amazed at the State Trooper's SUV from Emmonak. It was apparently strong enough on the river and the sloughs to drive 10 miles to Alakanuk.

The kids loved having my mom and dad in the classroom. Endearingly they called my parents Grandma and Grandpa. I was a little shocked to look at about five of the students with their little fingers in my dad's beard claiming, "It feels like tundra!" Luckily my parents enjoyed the attention and my students would ask every morning when they were coming in.
Each student had the choice of a hat made by my mother. They each got to choose two little accessories that my mom sewed or glued to their hat to customize it. Some of them wear their hats diligently everyday. I've also seen their hats being worn by their parents or siblings out in the community, which makes me smile knowing my mom's handywork has made it to Alakanuk.
I may be speaking too soon, but my class has had amazing attendance all year. Although we have had illnesses, our numbers have been great. Even throughout four days of the SBA, no students needed to make-up the test. Some classes' numbers have dwindled down to 5 or 8, but mine usually stays a consistent 14. The lunch ladies always seem a little impressed when I tell them the number. I can't credit myself, but I do appreciate the students and parents trying to get their kids to school. Some teachers complain of having students miss school for hunting, fishing, doctor's visits, oversleeping, and other reasons.

My goal is to have school be a little more fun, creative, and outdoorsy for the last 4 weeks. Let's hope my students find it important to make it to school every day still!
Clem, the Yu'pik instructor, and I. He named me Itegmaralria after his late mother. In the Yupik culture, that is a huge honor to carry the name of an elder. Also, since I have her name, he becomes my son. I realized how big of an honor this is to have his mother's name when he told the kids they must respect me as if I was not only an elder, but an elder's elder. This also means that students in my class will refer to me as their Great-Aunt or Great- Grandma and I feel a part of the community with so many new nieces, nephews, aunts, uncles, etc.

I have been trying to learn more Yupik and it is difficult with so many guttural sounds and odd spellings since it was originally an oral language. Hopefully my "tongue will soften" (as the other Yupik Instructor has said) and pronunciation will become easier with practice. I am able to understand more than I can respond to. My students often say, "Itegmaralria, daika" for me to come to them. My parents picked up some common phrases such as hello- waqaa, thank you- quyana, and you're welcome- ii.

Mom and dad noticed that village English sounds a lot like a Finnish accent. It really does have that slow Finnish intonation. I wonder about the similarities between Scandinavian people and the Yupik people-- an eskimo tradition called Lapp game, reindeer herders, and similar climates. That is something I'll need to research more.
I brought out the Yu'pik abacus to show my parents the base 20 system for counting. My students were saying the numbers for me as we used the hands and feet to represent up to 20. Then you slide a whole "body" over to the other side each time to reach 20.

1 – atauciq
2 – malruk
3 – pingayun
4 – cetaman
5 – talliman
6 – arvinglegen
7 – malrunglegen
8 – pingayunlegen
9 – qulngunritaraan
10 – qula
11 – qula atauciq
12 – qula malruk
13 – qula pingayun
14 – akimiarunrita’ar
15 – akimiaq
16 – akimiaq atauciq
17 – akimiaq malruk
18 – akimiaq pingayun
19 – yuinaunrita’ar
20 – yuinaq

The parking lot on the side of the school where parents often pick up their kids after school.
Mom wanted to capture me crossing over the above-ground sewer pipes on these wooden steps. I cross these steps at least four times a day and exposed sewer pipes, large fuel tanks, and sagging powerlines are among my daily sights.
One of my favorite places, the dock. With the sun setting and the Yukon stretching across the horizon, I love to spend time meditating. On this evening I got to take my mom.
Here's the sun, myself, my snowmachine, and the Yukon reflecting in my mom's goggles. I loved having my mom there and she loved going for rides!
Emmanual, at the Alakanuk Catholic Church.
My parents and I checked out the Alakanuk Catholic Church that Sunday. We were sitting towards the back. The service was in English and some text and songs were in Yu'pik. I enjoyed being with others who wanted to be closer to God-- it made me nostalgic for fellowship with people from the church I grew up in back home. Although my favorite times of worship in my new home have consisted of my solitude of being in the intricately complex outdoors, reading in my old Navy leather-bound bible, or singing unabashed to the chords of my guitar, I liked being in a strange, yet comforting Yu'pik church.

Mom and I going for another ride along the icy tundra. I never knew I'd have so much fun showing off Alakanuk to my mom while we zipped around on my Ski-doo!
Dad brought up all sorts of "doo-dads" (I believe there is a reason behind that slang!) to do. He installed new rearview mirrors, two cigarette lighter adapters (for GPS and cell phone if I need), and a plug-in for my helmet warmer. Thank you, my multi-skilled loving father of mine!

I am incredibly blessed to have such caring parents. They are supportive, loving, and amazing.

Thank you for being so much more than just parents and also being my friends, Mom and Dad. You go out of your way to help me so unselfishly. Even if I get busy, grumpy, or inconsiderate, you love me so patiently. I love you! I can't wait to see you in approximately a month and give you huge hugs.