There is something about heading out on the boat that just makes me feel like I'm "one of the gang." This is only my second time going out on the boat to go seal hunting, but I feel right at home when we pull up to get gas and casually chat with others on their boats. The people on the other boats are parents of students, students from my class, their siblings, Natural Helper high-school students, or others from the community most of whom I have met previously. The biting breeze, smooth open water, dark clouds, and light-hearted joking seem to be a norm for seal hunting.
This time, we only saw a few maklaks (bearded seal), and chased them with a couple other boats before losing them. It tends to be a fun, but no-stress sport. We all watch for maklak to "pohuq" (pop-up out of the water-- I need to check spelling!). When one does, someone hollers and points to it. The seal usually stays up for a few seconds trying to catch its breath. At that point, if a boat is close enough to it, they'll crank on the throttle of the boat and speed towards it. Someone in the boat tries to throw a spear at it. The seal can sense some danger. With one swift movement, it exposes its back above the surface to gain momentum and dive down. About five minutes later it will pop up about 100-200 feet away, but sometimes it is able to swim further away or stay down long enough to escape the spear.
Dylani has such a creative mind! We couldn't help but be entertained by her sweet silliness all evening.
Looking off the side of the boat, where Bummer's harpoon rests.
Bummer, Steph, and Theresa waiting intently to see the maklak surface again.
We stopped across the Yukon from Nunam Iqua to break for some seal ribs.
This piece of drift wood had a complete turn in it. I loved it so much, Theresa asked if I wanted to take it home and hang it on the wall in the living room. (Earlier, we had been talking about displaying my spear once I'm done making it.)
Fun mother-daughter time.
Bummer, preparing the delicious seal ribs over the fire.
I had heard from some kassaqs (non-natives) that seal meat was really rich, gamey, and not the best. However, I really liked it! It probably had a texture closer to liver? But, thick and tasty. Since it is so dark, I bet it has a high iron content. I would definitely eat it again soon if I could.
A typical view of other boats also chasing the maklak.
This boat is speeding off to follow a maklak. One guys boat was from Russian Mission. They had boated about 4 hours to come camp and hunt. It sounds like people from upriver mostly use harpoons and don't really use spears at all. Someone joked that, that's why they had a fast motor on their boat, because they needed some help since they don't use spears. I'm not completely sure of the difference, but I think a harpoon is a little bigger, is hand thrown, and has a couple flotation devices on the back. It does not require the nuqaq (wood piece held by the hand) used to guide the spear and make the throw more powerful.
This is a younger brother of one of my students in my class. He is wearing one of the classic life-jackets that sport the motto, "Kids don't float." It is a program sponsored by the Alaska Department of Health and Social Services.
I absolutely love reading your blog. Your positive attitude & excitement about the adventure of living in rural Alaska help me feel excited about mine that's about to begin.
ReplyDeleteThanks Shelly! I'm excited for you all to come out so Josh can be with his supportive family and introduce you to the Yupik culture. It is such a different world and way of living. In some ways that can be daunting, but in many others there are many others to enjoy while we live here!
ReplyDeleteEnjoyed the blog and pictures! Thank Bummer and Stephanie from me for taking you out on their family outing! Great memories for you.
ReplyDeleteI'm probably the only half Yupik who never had seal or whale blubber, etc., I lived in Ca., the past 41 years. Need to know my people and my language which I lost since I was young/
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