Yu'pik Fry Bread

One strong observable aspect of the Yu'pik culture is their willingness to share. Anytime someone makes fry bread, aqutaq (eskimo ice cream), or fish strips (dried salmon), they offer me a piece. Sometimes they'll even come out of their way to come find me to give me a nice fresh piece of fry bread. It is circular, more dense than a doughnut, band it is delicious without any frosting or butter.

 Marilyn, a teacher's aide at our school, and the mother of a student in my class, showed me how to make fried bread-- "aqaleq." I'll need to research the spelling. She use a large bowl and poured an unmeasured amount of flour into it. Then she let me add pancake mix of about a 2:3 ratio (more flour than pancake mix).

 Add just a tiny bit of salt.

 Marilyn's youngest daughter observes Marilyn makes a well in the middle of her dry ingredients and begins to add her liquids (just like my mom taught me to do when making her famous bread).

 The kids like to watch the ducks in a pond outside their house.

 Marilyn took her aggression out on this dough, adding just enough flour to make it so it wasn't sticky anymore.

 After taking a good handful of dough, she showed me how to roll mine up, stretch it out carefully, and poke a pentagon with a center hole with our fingers. Mine were lumpy and uneven at first, but with her encouraging words, my circles looked more like hers after a while.

 She lays them around the edge of the bowl to let them rise one more time before frying them. She starts at one end and fries them in a counterclockwise manner. This way she can keep track of which ones have been raising longer. Then she started putting them in the pot of vegetable oil based on which one she had rolled first.

 Once the holes get just a tad darker than this, we flip it over to fry the other side.

 I had a couple minor splashes in the process, but I learned quickly how to handle the tongs to the bread wouldn't slip off. Good thing, because I don't need to get anyone hurt from the hot oil.

 These were lain at an angle in a cardboard box to dry. I dipped a hot fresh aqaleq into honey to try their family treat. They were just right.

Thank you, Marilyn for opening up your home to me so I could learn how to make traditional Yupik fried bread. This is a skill that I hope I always remember so I will be able to pass this on to others.


Below: The sunset that night from the slough, looking toward AVEC and the Tribal Council (NW).

Alakanuk from Air

This is the airport we use right now, while the new one is still being built. The village is behind it.

This is what the construction for the new school looks like right now. They have to ship in the gravel from Nome which takes about 18 hours by barge.

Seal Hunting 2011

When I got a text from Steph asking if I'd like to go seal hunting, I was in the middle of coaching the elementary and Jr. High students for cross country. I called her right away, and asked her when they were leaving. I finished the cross country practice as quickly as I could and rushed as fast as I could using my crutches, rolling my office chair, hopping, and crawling. On the way home, I saw a student and promised him a granola bar on Monday if he'd carry my heavy backpack to my house. Next thing I knew, Steph was pulling up on her Honda four-wheeler to pick me up. She was so willing to help me to get my Carhartts and Muckboots so I could go along with them.

There is something about heading out on the boat that just makes me feel like I'm "one of the gang." This is only my second time going out on the boat to go seal hunting, but I feel right at home when we pull up to get gas and casually chat with others on their boats. The people on the other boats are parents of students, students from my class, their siblings, Natural Helper high-school students, or others from the community most of whom I have met previously.  The biting breeze, smooth open water, dark clouds, and light-hearted joking seem to be a norm for seal hunting.

This time, we only saw a few maklaks (bearded seal), and chased them with a couple other boats before losing them. It tends to be a fun, but no-stress sport. We all watch for maklak to "pohuq" (pop-up out of the water-- I need to check spelling!). When one does, someone hollers and points to it. The seal usually stays up for a few seconds trying to catch its breath. At that point, if a boat is close enough to it, they'll crank on the throttle of the boat and speed towards it. Someone in the boat tries to throw a spear at it. The seal can sense some danger. With one swift movement, it exposes its back above the surface to gain momentum and dive down. About five minutes later it will pop up about 100-200 feet away, but sometimes it is able to swim further away or stay down long enough to escape the spear.

Dylani has such a creative mind! We couldn't help but be entertained by her sweet silliness all evening.

Looking off the side of the boat, where Bummer's harpoon rests.

Bummer, Steph, and Theresa waiting intently to see the maklak surface again.

 

We stopped across the Yukon from Nunam Iqua to break for some seal ribs.

This piece of drift wood had a complete turn in it. I loved it so much, Theresa asked if I wanted to take it home and hang it on the wall in the living room. (Earlier, we had been talking about displaying my spear once I'm done making it.)

Fun mother-daughter time.

Bummer, preparing the delicious seal ribs over the fire.

This little ball was found amidst piles of dried black root on the tundra. Bummer told us that he and his brothers used to find the little balls and open them up. If they were moist, they'd eat the sweet substance. I found a few I could eat. When my teeth would cut through it, it tasted and almost felt like tiny bits of coconut.

I had heard from some kassaqs (non-natives) that seal meat was really rich, gamey, and not the best. However, I really liked it! It probably had a texture closer to liver? But, thick and tasty. Since it is so dark, I bet it has a high iron content. I would definitely eat it again soon if I could.

A typical view of other boats also chasing the maklak.

This boat is speeding off to follow a maklak. One guys boat was from Russian Mission. They had boated about 4 hours to come camp and hunt. It sounds like people from upriver mostly use harpoons and don't really use spears at all. Someone joked that, that's why they had a fast motor on their boat, because they needed some help since they don't use spears. I'm not completely sure of the difference, but I think a harpoon is a little bigger, is hand thrown, and has a couple flotation devices on the back. It does not require the nuqaq (wood piece held by the hand) used to guide the spear and make the throw more powerful.

Dylani is holding the nuqaq in her right hand and the end of the spear is loosely laying in place. When she throws the spear she also follows through with the nuqaq to increase the strength of her throw.

This is a younger brother of one of my students in my class. He is wearing one of the classic life-jackets that sport the motto, "Kids don't float." It is a program sponsored by the Alaska Department of Health and Social Services.

For those of you who like to watch Alaska State Troopers, this is the boat that is used by the couple troopers based out of Emmonak. They check up on us fairly often and they are great with the students.

Uh oh

After last year, I tried to think of ways I could commit more time to focusing on teaching in the classroom. I decided that being a Natural Helpers Sponsor, being on detention duty, random committee's etc. was helping others, but I was nervous that it was a lot on my plate for my first year in the bush. So I decided that I would cut out as many extracurricular activities as I could and let others step up the plate.

As of today? I might need someone to physically stop me. I volunteered to help with Cross Country for free because a new teacher took on that task somewhat unexpectedly. I had been in his shoes of facing the real task of daily classroom management, while trying to gain respect in a vastly different culture, after moving to an isolated area, and and dealing with learning that the food you mailed two weeks ago was stuck in a different far away village and was requiring more postage. It's a different way of life here in the village. Multiple responsibilities amidst a setting of chaos can be extremely overwhelming. Especially in a place where (due to our location and circumstances) extreme flexibility is required and short-notices of events and meetings are the norm.

So after helping run the practices after school every day this week, I ran into one of the new Natural Helper Sponsors who said she was overwhelmed with her work. And since I had felt a little guilted by some of the high school kids when they found out I wasn't planning on being the NH Sponsor anymore, I said that yes, I'd split the workload and still be willing to be the NH Sponsor. I also signed up for weekly detention duty on Fridays. That whole idea of focusing on my career was good and dandy, but I know I technically can help out with these extra things-- so I offer.

My goal this year is to love the kids for who they are and let them know that I care. When I say kids, I don't just mean my students, but all the kids K-12. By helping with Cross Country, NH, and detention, I'll probably be able to at least start that goal. I can use my exposure with all those kids to build relationships and be a loving adult in their life.

First day of school

The first day of school is here and gone just as quickly as I would have imagined it. I also helped out with a cross country meeting and then attended an online college course for two hours. I know I am blessed to have the same students, more awareness at the start of this school year, and the strength to still support new teachers. Today was a good day.

Life up here is so busy, you forget to eat sometimes. (Hence, at 9:30 PM a scarfed untoasted bagel, cold green beans, apple sauce, etc. I didn't even have the patience to heat it up.) Now for the important key to put all these prepared plans in action again-- sleep. Good night and thank you all for your support!

Prepping the Class

You'd think that with a gimpy foot, I'd try to limit the amount of changes I'd like in the classroom before the start of the school year, but no. I tried to conquer the world on crutches. Then I realized that since I wasn't getting the help I needed and my foot wasn't supposed to throb and feel pierced with pain, I should wait until a few weeks into the school year to give my classroom an extreme makeover.

Getting a class ready with a boot-cast, makes you realize a few things.

1. Trips across the room for any small task amount to approximately 200x/day
2. Office chairs easily double as a knee scooter to run to the bathroom or the cafeteria
3. Bush Alaska has never heard of the ADA (do you know how large the cracks are in the boardwalks or how many stairs a person has to go up and down in a day?)

 I wrote this on Rachel's birthday. Happy birthday, my love!

 Marilyn and Alice came in to help me for a while one of the days in my classroom. Thank you!

 It is always gets messier before it gets cleaner.

 This year I wrote their English and then their Yupik names on their nametags.

 I'm excited for a new school year to start tomorrow and to reunite with all my students. Let the good times roll and the learning begin!

Update for my Mother/Nurse: This is somewhat gross, but it is healing nicely and the bruising is going down.

Alakanuk at last

Hugs. The best hugs around. Hugs that have been waiting since spring. Four out of fourteen students have ran into me and have squeezed their smiling face into my shirt and wrapped their dusty arms around me. Many friends and staff have welcomed me back with warm greetings. Being able to see familiar faces makes me realize that I am happy to be here.

Unfortunately, my time has quickly been consumed by learning new curriculum, putting my class back in order, and getting prepared for a new school year. My hopes of going for walks, helping new teachers out, and going hunting have been pushed aside while sweat forms as I struggle to do the simplest task in the classroom. Yesterday, I finally got some more help in my room, but by that time I had already pushed my injured foot past its limits. I owe many of the people favors in return for the help they have given me.

Some of the new teachers and I have enjoyed each others company in the evenings for dinner together. We've gotten lots of laughter crammed into these stressful days. The teacher in the next classroom was paired up with me as her mentor. I promised later I'll be able to help her clean out some of her cupboards which unfortunately get cluttered as years go on by past teachers. She is very prepared, knowledgeable, and energetic. I'm excited for our classes to do some buddy projects together. I'm thankful to be a part of a great teaching team that we have this year!


Since I can't walk with the new teachers to show them the beautiful scenery Alakanuk has to offer, I gave directions to Sarah and Sammy so they could walk to the dock. With the autumn sun and cool breeze blowing, I craved to see the colorful Yukon. Sarah was able to capture the view in a panoramic from her cellphone!

I can't wait until I can walk again. As you can probably tell from my tone, this transition back to work has been more frustrating and difficult than I originally thought. Soon, I will be able to see my students again, see the sights again, and visit people more freely.